Sremski Karlovci

The Fruska Gora (Fruška Gora, Фрушка гора) mountain gives the name to the national park in Serbia around which many monasteries, charming towns, and vineyards can be found, just an hour or less away from Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, and much closer to Serbia’s second town, Novi Sad. The Fruska Gora National Park runs east to west, almost or barely spilling into neighboring Croatia. While we drove through parts of it, we did not explore it but, instead, checked out some of the places right outside its borders.

Driving in the area, on my way to Novi Sad from Belgrade (and now, while looking at my photos) makes me wish I could have spent a week just exploring every corner of this area in north Serbia bordering eastern Croatia and southern Hungary. Such natural beauty, such complicated history, and so easy to explore!

On my recent trip to Serbia, I was based in Belgrade where I enjoyed sightseeing. I have learned that in many Central and Eastern European countries, the country’s second largest city tends to be more charming and relaxed than the capital cities (Poland/Krakow, Bulgaria/Plovdiv, Romania/Brasov, etc.) so I booked a day trip to Novi Sad. However, the one I decided upon would show me a glimpse of the area in and around the Fruška Gora National Park which I thought would add to my exploring by seeing something beyond two cities.

It was a good decision. First off, we visited the Krusedol Monastery, and then we visited the colorful town of Sremski Karlovci where -bonus- I got to sample the local Bermet wine! Win, win, and triple win!

Krusedol (Krušedol) Monastery

Serbia is known for the monasteries that grace its land. Many were built in the Middle Ages and have seen the sweeps of history cross this country placed in a unique geographical crossroads (some, in fact, did not survive those “sweeps”). From what I have read, the monasteries are quite diverse in their design and location (cliff face, valleys, etc.). This page in the Serbia.com website shows a few images that convey this diversity. In our visit, we stopped at what I would assume is a more conventional monastery near the Fruska Gora National Park: Krusedol Monastery. (Other day trips from Belgrade are available to explore other monasteries too.)

Krusedol was built between 1509-1514 and is dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. It peaked at 90 monks in the late 17th century and has been damaged and ransacked across the centuries so many treasures, relics, etc. from the older times are gone. Later reconstructions of the church changed its initial architecture some, creating a blended style.

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Church and inner courtyard

The monastery first greets you with a large red gate in the shape of a church and red walls. To the left you can notice a cemetery on an uphill and you can perhaps see a family picnicking on its grounds with a cake and other food items to remember a lost one.

The main gate

Door of the main gate

Perimeter wall by the main gate, notice the cemetery on top of the hill

As you enter the gate a treed field greets you as you make your way to the main compound. You can see some quarters and stables straight ahead as you walk, and then you make a turn towards the church and main compound.

The area between the main gate and the monastery’s compound

Approaching the main compound. Note the old well on the left.

Inside the church, there are icons dating back to the 17th century though the frescoes, I understand, may be more recent or recently touched up. It is an understated place of worship, meaning it is not grandiose but still inspiring.

Entrance to the church

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Remnants of the fresco above the door (no photos allowed inside)

I recommend a visit to either this or other monasteries to get a sense of the important role these places had for centuries, much as they did in other places (see my visit to Moldova‘s monasteries here).

Near Novi Sad sits the small town of Sremski Karlovci, a charming and historically important town of about 9,000 in Serbia’s northern Vojvodina province. The town is right outside the Fruska Gora National Park along the shores of the Danube River. The town makes for a convenient stop when going to or coming back from visiting Novi Sad. Combined with the monastery visit, it is a great day trip from Belgrade though I would personally rather spend a few days exploring the Vojvodina province which offers a lot more. It was a weekend day when I visited and people were out and about. Though there was a little rain, it still felt that the place was alive (vs. some other towns I have visited that seem completely devoid of people on a weekend day!).

The town, as many places in this part of Europe, went back and forth between different rulers. Some of the most important ones were Hapsburg Austria and the Ottoman Empire. Sremski Karlovci served as the meeting point when an important peace treaty was agreed to by both sides at the end of the 17th century. The town, in general, served as an important center of Serbia’s political, cultural, and spiritual life during the Austrian rule. The town boasts Serbia’s first secondary school and its first seminary. The secondary school or “gymnasium” is really colorful – architectural eye-candy.

Karlovci Gymnasium, Sremski Karlovci high school, Serbian architecture

Karlovci Gymnasium (high school)

Other cool buildings include the Patriarchate (where the Serbian Orthodox Church leader -or Patriarch- used to reside, built at the end of the 19th century), the City Hall (built around 1810), and random buildings in various states of restoration / health!

Patriarchate Court

City Hall

old buildings in Serbia, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, Srbija, Serbia architecture

Notice the roof lines, especially on the rightmost structure!

I found it really cool that the Serbian Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas and the Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity in the town’s center sit next to each other. I like the symbolism…

St, Nicholas, St. Nikolaj, Serbian Orthodox Church, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

St. Nicholas Serbian Orthodox Church

Interior of St. Nicholas Church during a service

Holy Trinity Church, Catholic Church in Serbia, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina

The Holy Trinity Catholic Church

The Four Lions fountain sits in front of the Catholic Church and, allegedly, if you drink its waters, you will come back to town and get married. I didn’t test the premise…

Four Lions fountain, Sremski Karlovci, Vojvodina, Srbija, Serbia

The Four Lions fountain

Many other beautiful buildings border the center of town (not quite a “square”) and they hold important spots in Serbian history. It is a nice town to walk around and enjoy the architecture, the charm, and the happenstance of small town life.

A dog’s rough life by the fountain!

Fruska Gora’s Bermet wine

After some of that wandering, a stop at a local winery is a good idea. The one we visited did not take walk-ins so be sure to make an appointment ahead of time. The winery itself was in a cool (temperature and ambience!) setting and had some nice old artifacts.

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Tunnels where the wine is stored

Public area at the winery

We sampled the local specialty wine of Bermet, supposed to be the favorite dessert wine of European courts. It originates from the Fruska Gora region of the Vojvodina and I not only sampled, but took a bottle with me to share with my family when I met up with them the next day in Prague!