Ingredients

2 eggplants
2 red chillies
6 red capsicums
4 cloves garlic, peeled
¼ cup apple cider, white or red wine vinegar
¼ cup olive oil, plus extra for the jars
1 teaspoon sea salt

In autumn in the Balkans, ajvar (pronounced EYEvar) – a roasted vegetable paste – is produced in vast quantities to use over the winter. Versions vary, some without the eggplant or chilli, some chunkier than others, others reduced to a very thick paste. What is done without fail is to cook it over fire, giving a smoky dimension that lingers. In The Art of Fermentation, Sandor Katz says ajvar can be lacto-fermented, although I’ve never managed to keep it long enough to find out. It might be used as a sauce alongside grilled meats or vegetables, mixed with some feta for a dip, tossed through pasta or gnocchi and sometimes made into a salad dressing. For a fresher, chunkier version, coarsely chop the eggplant, capsicum and chillies, mince the garlic and mix with the vinegar and olive oil. Here I’ve served it with spiced grilled beef kebabs.

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Instructions

1.Heat a charcoal barbecue, grill or oven.
2.Prick the eggplant and chillies.
3.Put onto the grill along with the capsicums and cook until the skins have blackened and they have started to collapse (the chillies will cook the fastest).
4.Remove and set aside until cool enough to handle.
5.Remove the skin from the eggplant and the skins and seeds from the capsicums and the chillies, too, if you like a milder paste (I usually leave the chilli seeds in).
6.Put into a food processor with the garlic and blitz to a coarse paste then add the vinegar, olive oil and salt and purée to a smooth paste.
7.Put into a saucepan and simmer gently for 30 minutes until thickened and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
8.Put into sterilised jars, cover with a little extra oil and keep refrigerated. It should keep for up to 2 weeks.

Recipes & food styling Ginny Grant / Photography Aaron McLean/ Styling Jessica Hemmings