And more fashion news you missed
After years of blockbuster link-ups, Kim Jones’ collaborative mill has finally come to a close – kind of. Where Jones once integrated the work of artists, musicians, and brands into his own collections, he is now recruiting “guest designers” to create one-off Dior capsules. For his latest outing, Eli Russell Linnetz – AKA LVMH Prize-finalist ERL – put forward crystallised skater boy shorts, pastel mohairs, ying-yang puffers, and slopey tailoring. Having directed videos for Kanye West, assisted David Mamet, produced for Kid Cudi, and designed costumes for Lady Gaga, ERL’s approach to fashion draws on a trawl net of contemporary Americana staples, which resulted in what he described as “Californian Couture”. As such, the collection carved out a slipstream between the rigour of Parisian luxury and SoCal’s easy breezy attitude – embodied no better than all the glitzy saddle bag keychain wallets.
In other fashion news this week, Shannon Abloh was announced as the CEO of Virgil Abloh’s estate, Bob Mackie spoke out on all the Kim K met gala drama, and a Kate Moss biopic became public knowledge. Meanwhile, Gucci debuted its Cosmogonie collection beneath a lunar eclipse and Chlöe Sevigny got hitched in hot couture. For everything else that may have passed you by, click through the gallery below.
PITTI UOMO TAPS A TRIO OF SPECIAL GUEST DESIGNERS
Soulland will be joining this summer’s edition of Pitti Uomo alongside Grace Wales Bonner and Ann Demeulemeester, presenting its SS23 collection at a yet-to-be-revealed location in Florence. The label’s Copenhagen-based designer Silas Oda Adler said “the historical importance of Pitti Uomo speaks loud and clear with its combination of heritage and tradition, while always pushing for a new and relevant agenda within menswear. It’s exactly somewhere between this timelessness and the effort for a new responsible agenda that you will find us.”
JACQUEMUS UNVEILS HIS FIRST COLLABORATION
A project three years in the making, this week Simon Porte Jacquemus announced his upcoming collaboration with Nike. According to the designer, the collection draws inspiration from “late-’90s lace miniskirts, Lady Di’s sport looks, and the DNA of tennis.” All neutral tones and spindly leather straps, the 15-piece capsule, which he describes as “super light, but super sensual” will see the designer debut his first ever Jacquemus sneaker, an earthen Huarache embroidered with a tiny swoosh.
JIL SANDER PAYS HOMAGE TO PARIS
Having asked photographer Chris Rhodes to shoot their latest collection in and around Paris, Lucie and Luke Meier have released their latest tome, a 108-page photo book tracing the “barely discernible” qualities of the French city that inspired their SS22 collection at Jil Sander. “Paris is an allegory for all cities, a mood rather than a specific place, as a symbol of urbanity and our desire and need of being together and free.” Head here to purchase a copy of the publication.
MATTHEW WILLIAMS COMES OUT AS A DISNEY ADULT
And now something for the (perhaps unfairly maligned) Disney adults. Givenchy has just released a capsule collection with Lucky Rabbit, Bambi, Elsa and Olaf, and the 101 Dalmations. “The Wonder Gallery” features a slew of t-shirts and hoodies with the silhouettes of some of the franchise’s most beloved characters. Click here to see more of Matthew Williams’ latest.
YAYOI KUSAMA RETURNS TO LOUIS VUITTON
Almost ten years after its game-changing collaboration with Yayoi Kusama, Louis Vuitton has proffered a sequel. Debuted during Nicolas Ghesquière’s cruise show last week, the Japanese artist’s trademark dots and spots emerged as metallic baubles on bucket bags and splodges of paint on monogrammed trunks. The full collection is set to launch in January 2023.
LAZY OAF GETS ITS CLAWS ON CROCS
This week saw the birth of a brand new Croc – the Mega Crush – which takes its now-ubiquitous platform to new heights, thanks to a thick metallic midsole. Invented by the ever-berserk Lazy Oaf as part of is new collaboration, the link-up features three limited-edition styles which look as though they have emerged from a pile of primordial slop. Take a look here.
CALVIN KLEIN TASTES THE RAINBOW
This week Calvin Klein launched its Pride collection, which celebrates the queer concept of a chosen family. Featuring the likes of John Waters, Mink Stole, Sasha and Sergio Lane, and team members from The Trevor Project, the campaign has been captured in the style of a photo album by John Edmond. In 2022 to date, Calvin Klein has committed $400,000 in support of NGOs fighting for LGBTQIA+ equity, advocacy, safety and justice.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN IS MOVING TO AUSTRALIA
It’s been 11 years since the Savage Beautyretrospective but earlier this month the Los Angeles County Museum of Art announced the opening of Lee Alexander McQueen: Mind, Mythos, Muse – an exhibition which links the designer’s body of work to specific moments in art history from which he drew inspiration. The show will close on October 9 but it’s just been revealed that it will head to the National Gallery of Victoria, Australia in December. Get your tickets here.
MIUCCIA PRADA GETS BACK TOGETHER WITH BAZ LUHRMAN
Having designed for The Great Gatsby back in 2013, Miuccia Prada has reunited with Baz Luhrman, costume designing for Elvis. The movie, which premieres on May 24 at the Cannes Film Festival before hitting theatres in June, will see its protagonists decked in looks from the Miu Miu and Prada ateliers.