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Cala Goloritze (Aguglia)

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 27
  • Ascents: 77
  • Aka: Punta Caroddi
8

Seasonality

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Summary

Probably THE rock spire to climb in the island.

Description

Beautiful pinnacle (Punta Caroddi) in a remote bay overlooking the see with a handful of two to three pitch ascents Best decent is down Sole incantatore, can be done in 5 abseil with a 60m rope with a bit of stretch.

Approach

From Baunei, follow road to Il Golgo till the signposted parking. Follow the obvious path towards the coast (45 min - 1 h). Alternatively, check the boats going from the major towns on the East Coast - some offer bay hopping, saving you a lot of switchbacking and hiking, albeit probably no money.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 7a
2 5
3 6c+
4 7a
5 7a
1 6a
2 5c
3 6c
4 6a
5 4c

Set: 1987

1 6b
2 6b+
3 6b+
4 6c
1 6a 30m
2 6b+ 25m
3 6b 25m
4 6a 37m
5 5c 38m

P1 (6a): Climb up for a few meters on semi polished holds, then traverse up and right to the anchors (not many bolts)

P2 (6b+): Climb slightly right then up through the roof, making a few cool moves, after the roof it's a bit wandery, make your way to the semi-hanging belay.

P3 (6b): Start left of the belay, then follow the bolts up and slightly right, technical climbing finishing with a few steps to a ledge.

P4 (6a): Move either straight up for a more challenging start, or start right on a jug rail.

P5 (5c): Move left and up from the belay, a few technical moves and exposed climbing, crux protected by rusty pin (watch your leader, ledge fall potential if the pin rips), bolt just after.

FA: Enzo Lecis, 2003

1 6b+
2 6c+
3 6a+
4 6b
5 6a

As of October 2023, the anchors and some of the bolts have been replaced. The route now has 5 pitches, pitches 3 and 4 (as listed in our guidebook) have been replaced by a total of three pitches with anchors in different places. The route starts with two overhanging pitches (6b+, 6c+) with excellent gym-like protection. The route then goes up and left, over a bulge and then up and right through a slab with many good holds, the bolts are a bit further apart (6a+). From the next anchor, go up and left to reach another bulge and then a slab which is a bit more difficult than the previous pitch and which does have some larger distances between the bolts (6b). The next anchor is quite far to the right and not in line with the original route according to the guidebook. For the original route, traverse left from the anchor and then go up to reach a bolt which is quite far up - this is a no fall zone with the current protection, but the climbing is also not hard. After the bolt, the protection is better all the way to the top (6a). Alternatively, you can go slightly right and then straight up from the anchor. This is the last pitch (6c) of 'L'Orsetto Lavatore e il suo Compare', and the recommended way to reach the top.

FA: Paolo Ravasio & Sandro Zizioli, 1995

1 7b+
2 7a A0
3 7a
4 6c

FA: Fabrizio Dessì & Gian Luca Piras, 1995

1 6+
2 8-
3 7-
4 7
5 7-

FA: Lorenzo Nadali & Giuliana Scaglioni, 1986

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): M. Oviglia

Date: 2021

Baunei ist ein Topspot der sardischen Klettergebiete. Hervorzuheben ist hierbei natürlich die formvollendete Felsnadel der Goloritze. Der Kletterführer ist sehr übersichtlich und klein im Format.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Author(s): Richard Felderer

Date: 2024

ISBN: 9788855471541

A selective guidebook describes the best sport routes at Baronia, Oliena, Gala Gonone, Baunei, Jerzu, Ulassai and Quirra in Eastern Sardinia. In total 80 different crags are described, covering 1,000’s of single pitch sport routes across a wide range of grades.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 13 May
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