Great little ski resorts: Alpbach, Tyrol, Austria

So, where?
This small Tyrolean village sits at just under 1,000m at the bottom of a long valley of the same name, overlooked by the 1,899m Gratlspitz mountain. Since the arrival in 2012 of an eight-person gondola linking the Alpbach side of the resort with the Wildschönau valley, Alpbach has become part of the Ski Juwel area, which incorporates the resorts of Reith, Oberau and Niederau, whose 145km of runs make it one of the largest areas in the Tyrol.

Why try it?
Amid the timber-clad chalets and dark green spruce trees, you may come across a plaque announcing that you are entering the most beautiful village in Austria – and it’s spot on. Farmhouses dot the slopes, for this is a working village of more than 100 farms, and you might end your ski run next to a pile of fresh manure or find that your ski instructor works as a dairy farmer in summer.

In the 1970s, the village introduced laws requiring that every new building be constructed in traditional stone-and-wood style. And that’s a clue as to why most people come here – the relaxed pace and great scenery. Skiers tend to get up the mountain by 9am, have lunch at about noon and head off the slopes at about 3pm.

Loyalty to Alpbach is very high: it’s the resort of choice for generations of a small number of British skiers. One veteran said: “I’ve been coming here every year for 27 years. It’s friendly, it’s welcoming, and you get great food and skiing. Why would I want to go anywhere else?”

Mountain lowdown
There are three gondolas: the Pöglbahn and Wiedersbergerhornbahn for the Alpbachtal side, and the gondola up to the Schatzberg, the highest peak on the Wildschönau side at 1,898m. Lifts are fast with short queues, and pistes are well-marked and generally quiet. And once you get up the mountain, there’s a diversity of options: there are steeper slopes on the Alpbachtal side and the more cruisey Wildshönau side is good for leisurely afternoons, with nursery slopes, jump parks and cross-country routes. The pistes at Reith are floodlit three times a week.

The area is best suited to intermediate skiers. Some of the 78km of reds are fantastic, offering descents of almost 1km from peak to valley floor. But skiers should bear in mind that what’s classed as a red on the Alpbachtal side is considered a black across the valley. There’s a handful of black runs (18km in total) under the Wiedersbergerhorn. Book skiing or snowboarding lessons with Skischule Alpbach. A good place to hire equipment is Conny’s in the village.

And apart from skiing?
There’s about 70km of walking tracks, including a panoramic trail along both sides of the valley, passing waterfalls, woods and farmhouses.

Après any good?
You won’t be dancing on tabletops, but Alpbach’s après ski is lively enough. Head off the slopes to bars such as Umbrella Six or Joe’s Salettl, or to friendly village bars like Post Alm or the Jakober Irish pub, which have live music evenings, or Waschkuchl for Wednesday karaoke.

Where to eat
Restaurants in the village are affordable. Böglalm is a cosy mountain hut famous for its spit-roasted chicken that you have to order 24 hours in advance and Gröstl, an Austrian hash of beef or bacon fried in a huge iron pan with herbs and potatoes. Higher up, Hornboden has a panoramic sun terrace and, on the Schatzberg side, popular Gipfö Hit serves traditional Tyrolean dishes such as Knödel (spinach dumplings), Käsespätzle (cheesy noodles), and Germknödel, a sweet yeast dumpling. Walk up the mountain behind Alpbach to the Zottahof restaurant for Kaiserschmarrn – torn strips of sweet omelette served with stewed fruit and washed down with fresh farm milk. It’s a rustic meal that sums up Alpbach’s retro charm.

Where to stay
Inghams has a week half-board at the Alpbacherhof hotel and spa from £727pp, including flights and transfers.

The nitty-gritty

Alpbach has 145 km of pistes, 47 lifts, highest altitude 2,030m
Good for traditional feel and easy access
Lift pass (six-day) adult €211; child €105
Beer €4
Runs 1 green, 34 blue, 13 red, 18 black
Limitations The village isn’t right on the slopes, but free buses make the 10-minute trip to the gondolas.
Getting there Innsbruck airport is an hour by car, and Salzburg, Munich and Bolzano less than two. Or take the overnight train from London to nearby Wörgl.