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Ships that Pass …
The locks on the Danube in Central Europe are an engineering marvel.
Charlemagne (c.742-814), the medieval emperor who ruled much of Western Europe from 768 to 814, dreamed of traversing the European continent, from the North Sea to the Black Sea by water. All that was needed, in theory, was a trench around 3,000 metres (9,843 ft) long, connecting the Rhine River and the Danube.
In the absence of pumps, his medieval engineers faced problems with incessant rain, poor soil, and the consequential riverbank slippage. Remnants of the ponds and dams – attesting to the skills of medieval water engineers – can be seen today near the village of Graben in Bavaria, but no one is sure if the 2-metre (6.57 ft) deep ditch, now referred to as Charlemagne’s “Fossa Carolina”, was ever completed.
Napoleon Bonaparte “Napoleon I” (1769-1821) also hoped to connect the Main and Danube rivers, but met his Waterloo before he could implement any plans. King Ludwig I of Bavaria (1786-1868), inspired by canals in France and England, built a system of 101 canal locks – the Ludwig-Danube-Main Canal – which operated from the mid-1800s until its damage during WW II and closure in 1950.
The current Rhine–Main–Danube Canal, connecting the Main and the Danube rivers across the European Watershed, was constructed – after a long and controversial planning process – from 1960 to 1992. It runs 172 kilometres (106.25 m) between Bamberg on the Main River and Kelheim on the Danube.
Almost 20 percent of the €250,000,000 overall cost of canal construction went to environmental protection projects. So, it’s not surprising that I found it hard to recognise when we were on the canal, or on the Danube itself. What I did notice was the locks: there are 16 locks on the canal – 13 of which are designed to conserve water – with an elevation rise of 175 metres (574 ft), and drop of 68 metres (223 ft). The Danube end of the canal is 107.3 metres (352 ft) higher than the Main end. There are a further 18 locks on the Danube itself, each a part of a hydro-electric dam generating power.
It is fascinating watching the whole lock-passage process. My husband and I were on one of the new boats that act as floating hotel rooms for tourists, travelling from Nuremberg (see: Altered views of History) to Budapest (see: Buda Castle Hill). With the exception of our cruise down the magnificent UNESCO-listed Wachau Valley (see: “Picturesque” Personified), much of our sailing happened over night, and we spent our days exploring charming cities and historical features (e.g.: Regensburg; Kelheim to Weltenburg; Passau; Melk; and Vienna).
So, when we were transiting some of the many locks in daylight, we got out onto the boat-decks to watch with interest.
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On the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal
As our canal-boat leaves Nuremburg, a lock comes into view.
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Into the Lock
The door to the lock is open as our vessel approaches: use of the locks is carefully scheduled, and we have our appointed time. It is a quiet day: there is no one on the viewing platform. (iPhone5)
In the Lock
The locks are 12 metres (39.37 ft) wide, which limits the size of the boats on the waterways.
Wet Walls
The walls of the lock are so close we could touch them as our boat rises on the filling waters.
On top of the Lock
Once the waters reach their new level, the gate opens and we cruise through to the next section of canal. (iPhone5)
Scheitelhaltung – The Continental Divide
Just before dinner time the same day, we passed the highest point on the Main-Danube Canal – 406 meters above sea level. The European Watershed or “Continental Divide” is marked by a concrete monument.
Passau
Two days later, we have left the canal far behind. While our boat is docked in Passau, we climb the 200 steps of the Oberhausleiten-Stiege – the Upper House Stairs – and watch the traffic on the Danube below. The waterways are important goods-transport channels.
Statue of Bavarian Folk Poet Emerenz Meier (1874 – 1928), Danube River
Tourism is becoming more economically important, and the countless canal boats docked on the Danube in Passau are a testament to this.
Altenwörth Lock
The Danube can be far from “blue”. The next afternoon – after cruising through the picturesque Wachou Valley – we came back into the open on muddy-looking waters under an overcast sky. Downstream, the green light gave us the go-ahead at the approach to Altenwörth Lock, above Vienna.
Altenwörth Lock
Altenwörth Lock is one of the many canal- and river-locks that have two chambers, allowing two boats to traverse at the same time. Our side of the lock is full of water already.
Altenwörth Lock Mechanism
As we get closer to the gate, we have a view of the mechanics which allows the gates to open and close.
Altenwörth Lock
Once we are fully inside the lock, the doors will shut behind us, the valve will be opened, and water will be drained from the chamber.
Altenwörth Lock
Another boat comes in behind us on the approach channel.
Porthole in Ships that Pass …
Heading into the lock, we are so close to the TUI Allegra that we can see into her portholes.
Reflections in the Radar
From the bow of the boat, we can look into the bridge – and back at our own reflections.
Captain Peter
As we wait for our final go-ahead, our ship’s captain shows us around the pilot house.
Captain Peter in the Pilot House
There are plenty of bells and whistles, …
Controls in the Pilot House
… knobs, handles and dials.
The Gates Open
The water-tight lock chamber seems to close in around us as our boat lowers on the ebbing water. Once we are level with the downstream waters, the giant gates open.
Guiding the Boat out of the Lock
Our radar is no use to us here! Once the doors are fully open, Captain Peter has no more time to chat. He monitors the vessel’s progress closely as we exit the narrow lock.
Captain Peter
When we are clear of the lock doors and heading towards the open Danube, our captain relaxes.
Exiting the Lock
Behind us, the TUI Allegra exits the Altenwörth Lock.
I loved the old European cities we visited, and the views of the villages and landscapes as we glided down the canal and river.
But, I also found traversing the locks a fascinating insight into the mechanisms of a busy, working waterway.
Until next time,
Safe Sailing!
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A river cruise that should be on everyone’s bucket list.
It was certainly a wonderful experience! 😀
I have just completed my first river cruise. Why did I wait so long to experience an awesome holiday. Mary 16th July 2018
Enriching and relaxing at the same time, isn’t it, Mary. We loved it.
Have just read your wonderful blog on locks. I did the Danube last year, and yes, why did I wait so long to do a river cruise. I must do another.
Me too! 😀
Thanks for the nice pictoral view of the trip. We hope to take the Budapest-North Sea Donau/Main/Rhein tour in 2022 if/when COVID/variants are no longer an existential danger to all of the planet’s inhabitants.
Nice job indeed. I see now in the footings of this pate that you and I have planted footsteps on many of the same continents. I will read more later. I was only attracted initially to this blog because of this entry and our current registration for a “Viking Cruise”.
Hi Douglas,
Thanks for your visit and kind words.
I don’t think you will be disappointed! I can’t praise Viking highly enough; even before Covid, their food service and hygiene standards were top-notch. The river cruises are a great way to get an overview of an area.
Cheers, Ursula