Roland is truly an absolute Blaufränkisch magician.
This Moric Neckenmarkt Alte Reben 2011 is the best one yet from his masterful hands, and it’s also straight in to one of my highest scoring red wines.
To me this has the elegance, finesse and mouthwatering acidity of a high-end Côte de Nuits, while also holding the tannins, power and structure of a majestic Barolo.
There’s a base of blackberry, chokeberry, black cherry and a slight hint of plum, but then it’s quickly accompanied by a lovely freshness from sour cherry, raspberry, forest strawberry and some redcurrant.
Forest floor, pine needle, oak, tobacco, mushroom, tar and coffee add a really complex and interesting layer to the wine, while the tannins still have a firm grip on the gums and the acidity wraps it all together.
This should still get a decant and a large glass and it can definitely hold for a lot more years in the cellar. So far it feels to me that the two Alte Reben needs about 15 years after the vintage - that’s when you get all your money’s worth.