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Sweet Bellbird Wall

f_ladou

6-Dec-2011
3:41:19 PM

On Sunday, after months of inactivity on my part, Dominik and I returned to the Blueys to get onto Bellbird Wall a new-ish (2009) three pitch climb at Pullpit Rock in the distant suburb of cosmopolitan Blackheath. On the way back, in the car, Dominik asked me if I intended to write something on Chockstone about our day out. Mmm...

True, it was our first multipitch since we got our asses handed back to us on a ironstone platter on the second pitch of Blue Ruin.

True, I'm finally getting over a(nother) disc slip due, according to some, to a malicious curse (the fabled maloccio) invoked unfairly upon me ages ago.

True, we had just survived a violent hail storm (that being said: sitting in a comfy cave munching on our prosciutto sandwiches while Dominik bored me to death with his latest romantic conquests).

All outstanding reasons to write up, I know, but somehow the whole thing didn't seem like warranting a trip report in the style veni, vidi, vici. But stories should not always be about unstoppable enthusiasm and positivity running head first into adversity (with or without choss), at your grade limit, pumped and dehydrated. No, no, those lies should be kept for occasions worth leveraging into kardashian fame and timberlandish fortune. Also, this time it's easier as Alex was not around and for once, I don't have to tediously weave him in while maintaining a semblance of truth… (the man is in Fiji at moment enjoying having married into the Empire).

No, trip reports should be about enticing people to rope up. Whatever the grade. So here we go.

From the rap station, two abseils will take you down to terra ferma – using two 60 meter double ropes that is. I don't think you can rap down with a single 60 m rope, or 50 m for that matter. The first pitch is essentially a long technical and enjoyable diagonal traverse on a slab. It's graded at 16 but it could equally have been given 17 as it is quite technical here and there. Unless the grades is for the 16 draws your need for that one pitch...

The second pitch is stellar: two sections are overhanging. The first one only slightly with crimpy holds that will force you to rethink how easy a 17 could (or should?) be; the second one is a monkey playground with giant holds. It's well protected so you can have fun while hanging 50 meter above deck. Take your beginner friend and sent him/her to lead that one. That'll be a test of character.

The end of the second pitch leads into a cave which was, on that day, very convenient to sit the hail storm out. Then getting out of the cave, you go through a chimney/vault which will bring a smile to your soul (?!) as you pull out back onto the main wall. All of this at grade 15. Great, great, great.

I hear you ask the question, should I bring my beginner mate do this climb or should I do Sweet Dreams for the n-th time? Sweet Dreams is easier and certainly less confronting as there is no rap down, no steep overhang sections, no chimney. But I would venture to say that Bellbird Wall is a better climb overall, more varied and challenging and also set in a magnificent area (see below).

Honestly, I think it is one of the best low grade multipitch routes in the Blueys at the moment. For those who would like to experience that kind of adventure for the first time, just drive to the end of Hat Hill Road, find the Pullpit Rock car park and gear up!

So, thanks again Niall and the gang for putting it up,

Cheers, François

Bellbird Wall (45m, 16, 40m, 17, 15m, 15)
First Ascent: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Vanessa Peterson, Veronica Trainor, Althea Arguelles-Ling, Chris Ling, Mike Law, 7 Mar 2009

Myself 10 meters above the belay of pitch one (45m, 16) with 35 m and 10 more draws to go. Impeccable technique.

Another breathtaking view of the Grose valley, looking west.


pmonks

6-Dec-2011
3:53:13 PM

Great TR François - makes me miss the Blueys even more. *sob*

[edit] Were there really that many first ascentionists? What'd they do - place one bolt each??


benjenga

6-Dec-2011
6:50:16 PM

Its been a long wait from your last trip report but it's great to see your back out there. Enjoyed the read I look forward to hearing more.
Cheers

citationx

6-Dec-2011
8:24:54 PM

According to the latest guide the middle pitch is 18.
I insisted it was 17 to a friend too, since that was its grade when i did it originally, and he led it thinking it was stiff for 17. All was revealed when we got back to his guide.


Andrew_M

6-Dec-2011
9:17:43 PM

Hey Citation, that was a timely reminder for me to check all info from you (incl grades, route descriptions, weather forecast etc). As for grades, I reckon my wording was "solid" at 17 rather than "stiff", which is kinda different. Whatever the grade it's a really excellent fun climb and a good effort from the FAs.

citationx

6-Dec-2011
9:22:45 PM

On 6/12/2011 Andrew_M wrote:
>Hey Citation, that was a timely reminder for me to check all info from
>you (incl grades, route descriptions, weather forecast etc). As for grades,
>I reckon my wording was "solid" at 17 rather than "stiff", which is kinda
>different. Whatever the grade it's a really excellent fun climb and a good
>effort from the FAs.

The age... it clouds my mind :-P
(I know that when I followed you I certainly thought it was stiff for 17...)

Mike Bee

6-Dec-2011
9:29:25 PM

So is this climb on bolts the whole way?

citationx

6-Dec-2011
10:23:25 PM

On 6/12/2011 Mike Bee wrote:
>So is this climb on bolts the whole way?
yes

f_ladou

6-Dec-2011
10:23:31 PM

On 6/12/2011 Mike Bee wrote:
>So is this climb on bolts the whole way?

Yep! Fixed hanger all the way. I spotted one old stray carrot, that it. So no plates required.


Sonic

6-Dec-2011
10:53:08 PM

fixed hangers? I remember it being all rings when i climbed it. I thought it was a hoot with the girlfriend on second and she loved it too.

Nice TR

f_ladou

7-Dec-2011
8:50:58 AM

On 7/12/2011 Batey wrote:
>Nice TR
>
>Gtes me inspired. If only i was comfortable leading 18s i would consider
>giving it a go. Maybe at the end of summer.

Batey, I can honestly say that this particular 18 (second pitch) is particularly well protected and very safe. So, don't hesitate. Pick a nice day, rope up early, take your time and you'll be back at the car with the biggest smile ever stamped on your face.


tnd

7-Dec-2011
9:04:46 AM

Enjoyably readable TR as usual François. I bolted P1 and was first to set off on the FA but as usual most credit goes to the inimitable Mr Law for pointing out the line and bolting half of P2 and P3, with the Bundy boy wielding his drill for the rest.

As for the number of climbers on FA, well, the lovely Ms Peterson invited herself along, as she is quite friendly with Mikl, then we spent the morning at Shipley waiting for the sun to leave Pulpit Rock, and just kept picking up friends along the way...

Grading...I always thought P2 was 18, but was outvoted on the day. However, popular opinion won out as time went on! P1, maybe 17 but only for a techy slab move or two.

P3 is just classic, you won't do better for the grade anywhere. The exposure exiting the horizontal chimney is unreal. Pity it's not twice as long.

It's all rings and U's, no bolt plates needed.

citationx

7-Dec-2011
9:36:39 AM

On 7/12/2011 f_ladou wrote:
>On 7/12/2011 Batey wrote:
> Pick a nice day, rope
>up early, take your time and you'll be back at the car with the biggest
>smile ever stamped on your face.

I seem to recall we were quite warm on the route, even though we were back at the car before 11am. And this was in... early october?
You may wish to wait until the afternoon unless you're up super-duper early and/or like climbing in the heat.


BundyBear

7-Dec-2011
10:22:01 AM

On 7/12/2011 tnd wrote:

>Grading...I always thought P2 was 18, but was outvoted on the day. However,
>popular opinion won out as time went on! P1, maybe 17 but only for a techy
>slab move or two.

Yup, pitch 2 was my pitch. I think 18 (might get easier with chalk, etc to show the way)

>It's all rings and U's, no bolt plates needed.

Yes - indeed - all U's

If you finish early and are up for a bit of exposure rap back down and do "YAKs in Space" - Its only short, but you have 100m + of air under your feet, quite exciting for a 21 ...


pmonks

7-Dec-2011
10:36:52 AM

On 7/12/2011 BundyBear wrote:
>If you finish early and are up for a bit of exposure rap back down and
>do "YAKs in Space" - Its only short, but you have 100m + of air under your
>feet, quite exciting for a 21 ...

Speaking of exposure, does "Advanced Air Studio" at Bald Head get done much? It sounds quite similar to "Yaks in Space", though perhaps a bit easier (I think Andrew gave it 19). Another absolute classic!


vwills

7-Dec-2011
10:39:11 AM

The overhanging chimney at the top is like a poor mans Telstar (the climb at Ikara, not the car).


langles

7-Dec-2011
11:08:52 AM

View down the great first pitch;


nmonteith

7-Dec-2011
11:14:55 AM

On 7/12/2011 pmonks wrote:
>Speaking of exposure, does "Advanced Air Studio" at Bald Head get done
>much? It sounds quite similar to "Yaks in Space", though perhaps a bit
>easier (I think Andrew gave it 19). Another absolute classic!

The difference is about 45 minutes in approach time!


nmonteith

7-Dec-2011
11:52:52 AM

On 7/12/2011 langles wrote:
>View down the great first pitch;
>
>

That photo really doesn't sell the route!! Looks like it climbs a landslide. (The actual route looks really great, i've done the 24 that crosses it which was excellent)


pmonks

7-Dec-2011
11:53:40 AM

On 7/12/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>On 7/12/2011 pmonks wrote:
>>Speaking of exposure, does "Advanced Air Studio" at Bald Head get done
>>much? It sounds quite similar to "Yaks in Space", though perhaps a bit
>>easier (I think Andrew gave it 19). Another absolute classic!
>
>The difference is about 45 minutes in approach time!

Bellbird Wall is -15 minutes walk from the car? Wow!!

[edit] Neil have you climbed out at Bald Head at all? I only went out there once but was blown away by the place. There's some incredible looking sculpted orange rock on the lower cliff line, just to the right of where Serendipitous Cracks starts. I always wanted to go back and check that out from above, but sadly never got around to it. :-(

There are 33 messages in this topic.